What is it like at an Argentinian football game?
I’m in the middle of doing another article on Argentinian cinema and while researching I was reminded of this incredible scene from Oscar-winning El Secreto de Sus Ojos.
I remember being blown away by this sequence when I first saw at the cinema in Buenos Aires. That first sweeping, overhead shot takes you by surprise and almost seems a little out of place, but from these bombastic beginnings you are swiftly propelled to the very ‘real’ moment when you become embedded in the crowd. There follow some disorientating POV camera shots, which leave you feeling dizzy, tense and insecure. Director Juan José Campanella fully captures the mix ‘alegria’ and aggression you find in these concrete stands. He makes the audience feel as if they were really there.
I think it’s a particularly interesting scene for any traveller who has been to a game in Argentina. However much fun you have at a game, you will always feel like an outsider among the hardcore fans, and you will always be ‘on-edge’ – just like the film’s protagonist (albeit for different reasons). It can feel like an out-of-body experience and this is also why Campenella’s initial overhead pans work so well.
The short version of the scene is embedded above, but I highly recommend you watch the entire sequence over at CG Society, which also includes an interesting ‘making of’ explanation.
There were only 200 or so extras employed for this scene. The rest of the 50,000 or so fans were created by visual effects. It was the most ambitious visual effects scene in Argentinian cinematic history. The action takes place Huracán stadium in Parque Patricios in the city’s south and Ricardo Darín’s character is among the ‘away’ crowd, who are supporting Racing.
Although I almost always avoid group tours when I travel, I do suggest going with an established group if you want to catch a football game in Argentina. I have been to a couple of Boca games with Juancho Football. You’ll pay highly inflated tourists prices, but you’ll be safe and ensured a good spot in the heart of the action. He also makes a day of it by taking you to a local joint for pizza and beer with his fellow fans. (Be warned the place is a bit of a dive. I forgot to warn my dad and uncle about this when I sent them along. They remain scarred by the bathroom experience.)
I previously shared this tip on San Telmo Loft’s blog, where they have also offered some interesting tips on getting Boca ticketing tickets at local prices.
Note that Argentinian football game tickets are due to go up around 70% this season. This is really bad news for the diehard supporters who are on exceedingly tight budgets.
