Going Local Travel

In Cali, I got a lesson in just how proud caleño people are when I went to visit the city’s Cristo Rey monument. It’s an exact copy of Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer statue, but a few metres shorter, yet I found I was the only visitor standing below its huge, concrete feet. “I’ve [...]

I’m over the idea of getting thrills from Bogotá because it feels daring and dangerous to go there. Bogotá is exciting in its own way. Not everyone is bowled over by it instantly, but that’s what I like about it. I’m not much into standard sightseeing and, despite two visits, I still haven’t even been [...]

Here’s a slightly belated link to a piece I wrote in last week’s Observer magazine about good-value hotels across South America. It was good to be able to tip some little-known gems and places too. Cabo Polonio, Ollantaytambo and Valparaiso may trip of the tongue if you have travelled in South America, but to the [...]

Thinking about going to Peru? How’s this for advice? The water? Is poisonous. The food? Gives you diarrhea. The country? Is ugly. The pollution in Lima makes you choke. And everyone, and I mean everyone — taxi drivers, hotel owners,tour operators, souvenir vendors — tries to rob you. It makes you paranoid. I went to [...]